Surfing

Surfing is pretty awesome.

When I started planning my trip last year, one of the activities I was most excited about trying in Australia was surfing. Having already professed my love for the ocean and every aquatic is that really much of a surprise?

There really isn’t much opportunity to surf in Canada. Unless you live in British Columbia, the spots to catch waves are few and far between. Australia, on the other hand, is pretty much the polar opposite. Throw a rock  in any direction and you’ll most likely hit an appropriate place to surf. Throw a rock in any direction and you’ll most likely hit a surfer surfing in that spot. Don’t throw rocks.

When my friend Dave told me he was planning a trip to Barwon Heads to work on his (self-admittedly) shaky board techniques, I hitched a ride quicker than Bill Bixby while the credits were rolling (deeeeeep reference there).

As soon as we donned our wet suits and got in the water with our boards, I immediately took to it.  Now, when I say this, I do not mean in any way, shape, or form that some hidden talent for riding waves emerged from me and I became the re-incarnation of Spicoli. I sucked.

I put my wet suit on the wrong way around, I mounted my board awkwardly, I ingested upwards of a gallon of salt water, and the waves were tossing me around like I owed them child support.

But none of that stopped me from loving every single moment I was in the water. And nothing could prepare me for the thrill I experienced when, my body stretched out across the board and paddling for dear life, I caught my first wave.

I’ve been surfing twice now, and the incremental gains I see in my performance each time are enough to ensure I won’t be giving up this newfound hobby anytime soon. The sport is punishing, yet rewarding, and it becomes crystal clear why surfing is a lifestyle to so many who dedicate entire weekends and vacations to getting better on the board.

I haven’t racked up enough ocean cred as of yet to claim membership in that tight-knit clan. Yet I think I’ve gotten enough of a handle on it to share a few key points.

Peeping Toms and Rich White People

One of the reasons surfing is ingrained into Australian identity is its origins in ancient Polynesian culture. It’s safe to assume that the Pacific Islanders were riding waves long before the white man came and brought all kinds of trouble we won’t get into right now, but the first documented reports of surfing come from British explorers who witnessed the natives of Tahiti partaking in the sport. The first person to write about surfing was Lieutenant James King, who was tasked with completing the journals of Captain James Cook upon his death in 1779 while in Hawaii. I believe the exact wording from those journals were: “Pretty Gnarly Tube Riding! Bitchin”

Surfing was brought to mainland California in 1907 by eccentric real estate mogul Henry E. Huntington. Huntington had considerable money tied up in properties along Redondo Beach and was searching for ways to entice visitors. Having vacationed in Hawaii and witnessed surfing, he hired young Hawaiian boys to surf at Redondo and draw up crowds. Rich white guys are into some weird stuff.

Surfer Body: It’s a Thing

A day of surfing is an absolute blast, sure to be full of memorable moments you will cherish.

The day after a day of surfing SUUUUUCKS.

I was incredibly naive going in, and didn’t realize just how much of a full body workout it is. Your core is activated, your arms are constantly paddling, your chest expands as water fills your lungs. Everything hurts when you wake up the following morning, and you realize it’s no surprise that surfers look the way they look.

Everything Can Kill You, But Don’t Sweat It

An amusing byproduct of taking up surfing is the amount of instances people will warn you about sharks. No other activity I have ever tried has yielded the amount of shark warnings that I have received from family, friends, even my wife. Except maybe pool.

It’s a well founded worry though. Shark attacks are reported in Melbourne newspapers as frequently as gun violence is reported in Toronto newspapers, with the same amount of apathy. It’s just another thing to look out for in Australia.

Also, that classic literary trope about the sea being angry? That’s real. Riptides can carry away even the most experienced surfer, pushing them out to dangerous waters and sapping away their energy. So next time you’re listening to that Vance Joy song, remember: it’s not a heartfelt folksy love ballad. Vance Joy is from Australia and he is delivering a Public Service Announcement to his people.

You really can’t think about these perceived dangers or else you will get into your head. Therefore I have developed a theory that that is why surfers smoke so much weed. How else are you going to relax when the thing you love is wrought with so many perils?

Surfing is Incredibly Inclusive

 

The biggest takeaway from that first day out in the water was the diversity in those who were also out there. There was no set age, race, body type. Surfing is by far the most varied group activity I have ever been a part of.

Fun side note: you haven’t experienced true humiliation until you wipe out in spectacular fashion, only to emerge from the water just in time to catch a 7 year old girl zipping by you with perfect form. That is until her 80 year old balding grandfather passes you on your other side.

Surfing Opens up the World

In late August I will be travelling to Hawaii with my wife. We will both be surfing while we are there. In the year 2017 I will be able to say that I have surfed the coastlines of Australia and the beaches of Hawaii. How many people are able to claim that?

Maybe by the time we get to the island I’ll be able to stand up on the board….